The sandwich, as everyone knows, was popularised by a fat, corrupt, adulterous Etonian aristocrat in a wig who aspired to be able to stuff a light meal down his gullet and drunkenly gamble the night away at the Hellfire Club without ever having to pick up a fork or put down his hand of cards. In short, it’s a quintessentially British creation. At first glance it appears sensible, composed, and breathtakingly ...

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